Fins Fit Food

How did you get into surfing and what do you love most about it?

When I was a teenager my dad moved back from abroad and bought land in Sligo, to keep me occupied (so he wouldn't have to listen to a teenagers mantra of “I’m bored”) he got me a week of surf lessons. It was the Easter holidays and thanks to the week of great weather, swell, instructors and fun I was hooked! That summer I saved for a board and I’ve been lashing all my spare cash (and not so spare too…) at boards, wetsuits and general surfing equipment ever since. I even traded in having a normal car to drive a van in recent years! I’m not actually sure what I love the most, that I can be a big chicken a lot of the time, I do love the thrill on taking off on a bigger wave in a decent set (I’m only 5”2 so to my boyfriend it probably wouldn't even be considered a big wave).

Do you think it's important to make time to get outside? How do you like to do this?

Oh my god yes! I turn into a bit of a crazy/cranky person if I don't get outside everyday! Its good for your brain/skin/general well being. My favourite way is for surf or something in the sea, but even on really rough horrible days I still love to go for a run (sure you’re gonna be sweaty anyway) and then I can have a nice hot shower after. So many problems seem smaller after a run in howling wind and rain.

Your brilliant book Finn's World came out earlier this year and has been a great success! If you were going to cook us any recipe from it, what would you pick and why?

Oooh thats a tough one! For you ladies, I’d say the Surf Instructors Club Sambo. Its perfect for when you're absolutely starved getting out of the water or in from a hike. Its super quick to make and great washed down with a cup of tea.

How do you overcome your fears? (from anything like paddling out on a big day to getting your book published!)

Hmm on the surf one, there is always the constant fight not to chicken out when there’s big swell/packs of dudes or people who are just way better then you in the water. Last winter to get myself used to bigger days I would just go sit in the channel sometimes to get used to where the waves were breaking and get used to the size/sound/general power that was going on. Some of the guys thought it was funny that I wasn't paddling for any waves, but I think they also respected that I wasn't being stupid and getting pounded or putting other people in danger. For the general “putting yourself out there bit” I like Jen Sincero’s line “I’ll just see what I can get away with”, it takes the pressure off and reminds you that life doesn't need to be so serious. So for me its like “I’ll just see if I can get on a research vessel”, “I’ll just see if I cant get my name on this culinary course” the worst someone can do is say no, or laugh in my face, or tell me its impossible. All of these have happened. I’m still alive.

What do you have in your thermos to warm you up after a winter surf?

I just love your questions! Usually ginger or peppermint tea, gives you a bit of zip and doesn't have dairy in it if you want to drink it before you get in the water (can make your stomach a bit crampy dairy right into exercise). Top tip! pour a bit of the tea in your wetsuit gloves, swish around and pour out before you put them on. Toasty fingers for getting in the water. I also usually have muffins made from the banana and coconut cake mix from my cookbook.

What does living a happy and healthy life look like to you?

Something simple, by the sea with friends, family, good food and lots of animals with a bit of travel and adventure thrown in for good measure. I dont need a big gaff or lots of stuff. But a pick up truck would be cook, I’ve wanted one since I was 16 and spent a summer in rural Canada :)

What would be your perfect day?

For a work day, I spent a few months on the Canary Islands last year and a perfect work day was - get up, coffee, do some writing (I was finishing the cookbook), breakfast, write some more, go for a long run (lots of stunning volcanic landscape and sea to look at), have lunch in the park and then write till the evening or go to the beach. That might sound a little too simple for some!

At home in Bundoran some of the best summer days would include just lots of driving around and finding surf, fishing, hiking and finishing it off with a BBQ and some music in the local pub!

Where is your favourite beach (if you can pick just one) and why?

I cant really! But off the top of my head, there’s a beach in Connemara in Galway, I remember swimming there when I was little and I managed to find it again last New Years (several hours of searching with lots of “when I was 8 that rock looked bigger”) and its some of the clearest water I’ve ever seen. Abroad probably a few of the beaches off the island of Antiparos in Greece, thats where I learned to dive.

What words do you live by?

My dad has a great line “keep the faith in the inbetween times” while it is so awesome to work for yourself (in what you love to do) the realities of life also mean its tough to be self employed with a foot in two different industries in a small town thats seasonal! So this motto is one to live by.

Can you describe in one sentence how being in the sea makes you feel?

Lol. Like a mermaid? The wonderful Sophie Hellyer described herself recently as a “self proclaimed marine mammal”, I think that sums it up. When I’m in the sea (or working on a research ship) it just feels like its where I’m supposed to be.

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